Pilgrimage 1
- hiking scotland
Another long weekend, another long walk. Part-time working is paying off!
My original plan was to walk and wild camp in the highlands, but the weather forecast for the north looks unpleasant. Instead, I look south for alternatives, and discover St. Cuthbert’s Way.
Following in St. Cuthbert’s footsteps, this walk goes from Melrose Abbey in the Scottish Borders across the English border and the Cheviot Hills towards the sea, and over a causeway to the Holy Island of Lindisfarne off the coast of Northumberland. I convince a friend to join me, and as there is hostel accommodation on the way, we travel light.
Saturday: Bonjedward - Morebattle - Kirk Yetholm
On Saturday morning my friend awaits me with coffees at the bus station in Edinburgh. A bus takes us in 2 hours to Bonjedward just north of Jedburgh, where we join the trail at noon, walking 25 km (15 miles) to Kirk Yetholm. On the way, we visit and climb around in the ruins of Cessford Castle, and stop in Morebattle, where a Danish minister is restoring the derelict church building which in the meantime acts as a cafe.
There are no other walkers on the trail - but then we skipped the first leg of the walk (Melrose to Jedburgh), which most other walkers would have done on the Saturday, so we are one day ahead of everyone else.
Walking is effortless. It must be the nice company, conversation flows easily. I wonder if this will still be the case on day three.
We cross Wideopen Hill, the wind in the back pushing us up and over.
Walking into Kirk Yetholm in the evening, we find a wooden box with duck eggs for sale and buy some for breakfast. We have a chat with the locals about the merits of each of the two pubs in town, the Plough and the Border. The Plough sounds more fun, and indeed it is. We sit with lorry driver Mark who is at first a bit shy at admitting that he is collecting sheep to take them to the abattoir in Aberdeenshire, their final stop before Morrison’s supermarkets. I think he’s worried I might disapprove, because I look like a vegan.
While chatting and getting our food we also find ourselves in the middle of a lively pub-wide game of beer pong with the locals. Ping pong balls are flying high, and when we later check out the classier and much quieter Border Inn for a night-cap, the contrast is stark.
Back at the hostel I take a late shower and find a top bunk bed in the full dorm. The bunk beds shake whenever the girl below is moving, and despite an early start and a long day of walking, I’m not getting much sleep.
My original plan was to walk and wild camp in the highlands, but the weather forecast for the north looks unpleasant. Instead, I look south for alternatives, and discover St. Cuthbert’s Way.
Following in St. Cuthbert’s footsteps, this walk goes from Melrose Abbey in the Scottish Borders across the English border and the Cheviot Hills towards the sea, and over a causeway to the Holy Island of Lindisfarne off the coast of Northumberland. I convince a friend to join me, and as there is hostel accommodation on the way, we travel light.
Saturday: Bonjedward - Morebattle - Kirk Yetholm
On Saturday morning my friend awaits me with coffees at the bus station in Edinburgh. A bus takes us in 2 hours to Bonjedward just north of Jedburgh, where we join the trail at noon, walking 25 km (15 miles) to Kirk Yetholm. On the way, we visit and climb around in the ruins of Cessford Castle, and stop in Morebattle, where a Danish minister is restoring the derelict church building which in the meantime acts as a cafe.
There are no other walkers on the trail - but then we skipped the first leg of the walk (Melrose to Jedburgh), which most other walkers would have done on the Saturday, so we are one day ahead of everyone else.
Walking is effortless. It must be the nice company, conversation flows easily. I wonder if this will still be the case on day three.
We cross Wideopen Hill, the wind in the back pushing us up and over.
Walking into Kirk Yetholm in the evening, we find a wooden box with duck eggs for sale and buy some for breakfast. We have a chat with the locals about the merits of each of the two pubs in town, the Plough and the Border. The Plough sounds more fun, and indeed it is. We sit with lorry driver Mark who is at first a bit shy at admitting that he is collecting sheep to take them to the abattoir in Aberdeenshire, their final stop before Morrison’s supermarkets. I think he’s worried I might disapprove, because I look like a vegan.
While chatting and getting our food we also find ourselves in the middle of a lively pub-wide game of beer pong with the locals. Ping pong balls are flying high, and when we later check out the classier and much quieter Border Inn for a night-cap, the contrast is stark.
Back at the hostel I take a late shower and find a top bunk bed in the full dorm. The bunk beds shake whenever the girl below is moving, and despite an early start and a long day of walking, I’m not getting much sleep.