Kat and I are staying in the youth hostel in Ullapool. Our dorm is full and I feel bad about setting the alarm for 2 AM in the morning, but I saw something in the news about a super moon. I climb down my bunk bed which causes considerable noise and shakes. Peeking through the curtains I can see a full moon in the clear sky over the bay and it is pretty, but not as super as expected. Did I get the time wrong? Not sure what it is I’m looking for so I get back to bed.
We are having a bit of a late start and drive to Lochinver for a circular walk up and over “hypnotic” Suilven. The walking book gives us a rough outline of the walk, and a description of the features along the way. We’re starting from a small car park east of Lochinver, walk clockwise towards Canisp, always keeping Suilven to our right until we approach its northern flank, climb up and over and return westward to the road. That’s the plan.
I’m feeling a bit under the weather. It’s my period! Feverish, and headaches, but I know that the walking will get rid of my cramps, and if not, Ibuprofen is my friend. There is this unspoken rule that you have to pretend to be having a good time when walking even when you are not just now. Because what’s the alternative? Going back? That would never do! So there is no point in whining and making other people miserable as well. Also, you always have to suffer a bit when walking, and the rewards are worth it - lunch never tastes better than on a hill. And the views, and the appreciation of little things like a hot shower, a pint, a fire!
The weather is nice, a bit cloudy, but dry. We walk to Glencanisp Lodge on a tarmac road and then join a path. We get occasional glimpses of Suilven, looking imposing, tall, steep and quite far away. After what feels like hours we get close to the foot bridge after which we have to leave the path, cross the moor, and approach Suilven’s base.
We meet a young woman, looking happy and fresh. She tells us she’s just been up Suilven, and says it’s a good one. (8 hours later I’ll think back to these words.)
We find the turn-off and plough our way through the mud. The moor isn’t as flat as it looked from afar and there are a few ripples to cross before arriving at Suilven’s base. We spot small figures high up on the slope, but only half-way up the hill. We’re going up the flank, aiming for the bealach (saddle) in the middle of Suilven.
The climb is quite steep, and a bit technical and scrambly so that you have to think a bit about where you’re going. For the first time in a week am I glad that I brought along walking sticks. It takes about an hour to get all the way up. In the end we need to climb through a gap in the rocks.
Once through, the view is breathtaking.
To be continued.
|
|
The plan: A 23 km circular walk starting in Lochinver.
|
|
|
Hypnotic Suilven
|
|
|
Canisp on the left hand side, Suilven to the right.
|
|
|
I just had to keep taking pictures.
|
|
|
Ditto.
|
|
|
Approaching Suilven’s flank.
|
|
|
Aiming for the bealach.
|
Comments